Our friend Freya Middleton, who runs the best tour agency in Florence (see http://www.freyasflorence.com/), recently published a blog about the wonderful Tuscan roast pork called arista, a classic Italian dish we serve at the Watermill.
It reminded me of my own research into the history of this tasty dish, particularly in the pages of Pellegrino Artusi’s famous classical Italian cookbook, L’arte di mangiar bene. Why call it arista?. It would seem to make more sense to call for this arrosto (roast) or even arrostito (roasted).
But Pellegrino says: “During the [Church] Council of 1430, convened in Florence to resolve some difference between the Roman and Greek churches, this dish, known by another name at the time, was served up to the bishops and their entourage. When they found it was to their liking they began to cry ‘arista, arista’ (good, good).â€
Actually, if the Byzantine bishops were speaking Greek, they would have said aristos, which means excellent or optimal, from which we get aristocracy, ‘the rule of the best.’ No matter, the Italians, thinking the Greeks were describing the dish, heard it as arista and continue to call it so to this day. There are those who question this story and say the Florentines called the dish arista well before the ecumenical council, but I like Pellegrino’s story better.
We use tender pork loin to produce this dish every week for our creative courses. Come and try it for yourself. We think you’ll find it aristos.
Incidentally, we are thinking of producing a series of online videos presenting some of the Watermill’s favourite recipes. Is this something in which you would be interested? If so, please let us know, by commenting this blog. Thank you.